Scotland: No Country for Englishmen

Over the summer, RealClearHistory Editor Samuel Chi embarked on a two-week tour of the British Isles and France. He filed a few dispatches via the transatlantic telegraph cable, which we just received now.

Part I: Guernsey - British Land Under German Boots

Part II: Cobh - Titanic and 'The Saddest Place in Ireland

Part III: Belfast - Rising From Ashes of 'The Troubles'

Part IV: Scapa Flow - Where Britannia Ruled the Waves

EDINBURGH, Scotland - "How many countries are in this country?"

The question came from a bewildered Ted Lasso, the fictional new coach of the Tottenham Hotspurs in NBC's humorous promotional video "An American Coach in London." Lasso the Texan was hired to lead the non-fictional English soccer club all the while trying to get a grasp on the mystifying cultures of both Britain and soccer. 

The correct answer to the question, of course, is four (at the 3:00 mark of the video). And if you've ever traveled to the different countries of the British Isles, you'll know it's no joke.

The HMS Caribbean Princess made her way around the Orkney Islands and into the North Sea before pulling into the Cromarty Firth, nearing our next destination of Inverness, the capital of the Scottish Highlands. While we were still in the United Kingdom, just as we were in Belfast and Kirkwall, we knew we have come to a different country the instant we went ashore.

While its population is only just over 5 million (out of 63 million for all of the UK), Scotland is fiercely independent and protective of its heritage. It enjoys virtual autonomy politically, with its own distinct cultural and legal institutions. Scotland has its own representatives in the European Union parliament and above all, has its own national soccer team and governing association.

That's right, when it comes to competing in soccer's World Cup, Scotland has a team apart from England, Wales and Northern Ireland. In fact, the first international soccer match between national teams took place in 1872, when Scotland and England played to a 0-0 draw. Scotland has its own professional league that's not part of the Football Association (of England and Wales) and the same goes for rugby, another popular sport.

Open Championship at Muirfield

Yet, in terms of sports legacy, though, Scotland is best known as the "Home of Golf," where the game was developed in the 15th century. It boasts some of the world's most famous and venerable courses, such as St. Andrews, Carnoustie, Royal Troon and Muirfield, where this year's Open Championship was held. We happened to stop by the links masterpiece during our shore leave and catch American Phil Mickelson's historic effort in winning his first British Open.

There are other familiar Scottish customs and legacies: The kilt (not as weird as you might think), single-malt scotch (it'll burn your insides up like a raging fire) and bagpipe music (festive or elegiac, fabulous in the right hands). But the most famous of them all is a fictional one - or is it? - Nessie.

The Loch Ness Monster was first "spotted" in 1933, but the literature of mysterious sightings goes back to the seventh century. "Nessie," as she's affectionally known, resides in the biggest and deepest fresh water lake in all of the British Isles. There's more water in Loch Ness than in all the lakes in England and Wales combined. The lake's strategic value in medieval times is revealed by the remnants of fortifications dotting the shoreline, the biggest of which is the ruins of Urquhart Castle, its construction dating back to the 13th century.

We tried to spot Nessie from various vantage points inside Urquhart Castle, but all we saw was beautiful, calm water on a spectacularly sunny day (there weren't too many of those in Scotland, we were told). Then, not even a month after we left, there appeared videographic and photographic evidence that something was indeed stirring in Loch Ness. But my daughter Rachel, 8, a firm Nessie-denier from Day 1, still wasn't buying it. (Something else she also didn't buy - food from that very Scottish institution, McDonald's.)

Before we arrived back at the MS Caribbean Princess, our friend Tony, who's English but went to college at the University of Edinburgh, got into a spirited discussion with our Scottish driver, who lamented that Scotland once again failed to qualify for the World Cup.

"Why don't you pull for England, then?" Tony prodded.

"I'd rather pull for Germany or whoever's playing England," came the retort.

With that, we scurried out of the vehicle and back on the MS Caribbean Princess. While the ship was being prepared for our departure, a local bagpipe band was sent to bid us farewell. The pipers played a number of classics, including Scotland the Brave, Amazing Grace and my favorite, Highland Cathedral. Then, for the grand finale, knowing that more than two-thirds of the ship's passengers came from the U.S., the band serenaded us with that most American of all songs, Anchors Aweigh.

To raucous cheers from every deck. Maybe the Scots now will have somebody to pull for, at least in the Army-Navy game.