On the continuum of racist things, Apu Nahasapeemapetilon initially seems but a minor transgression. Apu is the good-natured owner of the local convenience store on “The Simpsons,” the beloved cartoon that recently began its twenty-ninth season. In his best moments, he's one of the few sane, hardworking people on the show. He sees the world askance, like a critic softly lampooning the casual bigotry of those around him. He represents a different kind of American Dream than the one on display throughout the rest of Springfield, the town where the series is set, and where so many seem to fail upward. It's hard to be too mad when Apu cuts corners, too, wiping clean a hot dog that's fallen on the floor and putting it back out for customers, for instance.