MADRID—At General Francisco Franco's graveside, discussion is lively. Around the tombstone of the Spanish dictator, laden with floral offerings and gazing up into the granite arches of the Valley of the Fallen's vast basilica, visitors hold forth over the fate of the man who has been buried there for more than 40 years.
“They should not remove him,” one middle-aged woman protested to me recently, puncturing the air with a sharp finger, referring to the government's recent decision to exhume him from the monument he himself dedicated and rebury him in a less-exalted location. “He was good and he was bad. But he was our history, and I am Spanish,” another insisted.
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