George Washington didn't sleep here. But he ate, drank, and met famous people at City Tavern, a dining establishment that served members of the Continental Congress and the Constitutional Convention. The restaurant is one of a handful in Philadelphia that offer patrons not only a good meal, but a taste of history.
City Tavern opened for business in December 1773. A fire in 1834 severely damaged it and the remaining structure was razed 20 years later. The National Park Service recreated the building to coincide with the nation's bicentennial in 1976. It is currently leased and operated by Chef Walter Staib, and has been seen on his PBS program, A Taste of History.
Situated only a few blocks from Independence Hall, City Tavern is located in what locals called “olde city” (with the extra e), and looks and tastes much as it did nearly 250 years ago.
A spokesman said 98 percent of City Tavern is what it originally looked like, down to the color scheme. It was constructed based on original documents.
Have a steak the way Washington liked it
Recipes are also based on historical records: Washington had acquired a recipe for porter and made it. (The recipe is taken from a letter he wrote that is now in the New York Public Library.) It is made at a local brewery, but brace yourself: the Founding Fathers were a hardy group, and the alcohol content is about eight percent -- twice that of modern beers and ales. A beer Thomas Jefferson brewed is also available.
Waiters and waitresses are dressed in colonial garb, and know the tavern's history. One thing not based on the original designs: the kitchen. It's modern. Everything would take hours to cook on a busy night if Colonial-era kitchen items were used.
Washington obviously did not dine at two of Philadelphia's more historic eateries -- Ralph's Italian Restaurant and The Victor Cafe. Ralph's has the distinction of being the country's oldest Italian restaurant, while Victor Cafe, which opened in 1933, is famous for its waitstaff, who are trained opera singers and every 20 minutes serenade diners with arias and songs.
When The Victor Cafe opened in 1933, it was “the place to be for classical music,” said Sandra La Mont, granddaughter of founder John Di Stefano. Di Stefano had a record shop in a row house that sold “refreshments.” When Prohibition ended, he obtained a beer-and-wine license, converted the space into the restaurant, and moved the record shop to a building across the street. New York Philharmonic conductor Arturo Toscanini dined there, and performers from the Philadelphia Orchestra and the city's opera companies often ate there after concerts. The tradition continues; Yo Yo Ma has eaten there.
“Tony Bennett comes in,” said La Mont. “I had dinner with him when I was eight.”
The walls are lined with singers who have dined at the restaurant. One is devoted to Philadelphia native Mario Lanza.
Di Stefano would play music on an old Victrola from his extensive record collection, and sometimes professionals would sing along, said La Mont. In 1979, an opera singer named Bruce Pitney was looking for a waiter's job, and suggested he could serve food and sing for patrons between orders. Today, all wait staff at The Victor Cafe are trained opera singers. Every 20 minutes one will ring a bell, announce what they will perform, and sing. La Mont said they have to audition for their jobs.
Sing it to me
When I made a reservation, I requested two songs my guest wanted to hear. I was told it depended on who was working that night; one song required two tenors. Only one tenor was available when we dined, but our waitress sang an aria from the film Diva.
Ralph's Italian Restaurant was founded in 1900 by Francesco Rubino; today, his great-grandsons James and Edward operate it, along with fifth-generation family members, several of whom do some of the cooking. Family recipes for “red gravy” and bolognese sauce are still used.
The three-story building that houses the restaurant was originally a boarding home for Italian immigrants. Try to get a table on the second floor, which has the original marble floor and murals of towns and cities of Italy on the walls. The first floor has the original tile flooring.
An employee made a “guestimate” that 45 percent of diners are tourists (“They hear oldest Italian restaurant and they definitely want to come by,” he said), 30 percent are from the Philadelphia region, and the rest are locals. Prices are moderate. According to the restaurant's website, President Theodore Roosevelt dined there, and former Vice President Joseph Biden frequently ate at Ralph's while a senator from Delaware. A photo of Frank Sinatra appears on the website, indicating he might have enjoyed eating pasta there.
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