The original is reproduced here exactly as written, including misspellings and abbreviations. It was written in pencil in a tiny cloth-bound diary trimmed with dark brown leather edges. It measures 2½ by 4 inches. The diary itself is now in the American Alpine Club Library.
this little book is filled with misspellings and abbreviations, some of which are meaningless to a reader not very familiar with the early history and geography of McKinley. This text has been prepared partly to protect the original manuscript and partly to make its contents fully intelligible. The notes may be helpful—as will reading Hudson Stuck’s The Ascent of Denali, Scribner’s, 1914. For other publications of interest related to this story, see: Terris Moore’s, Mt. McKinley, the Pioneer Climb, Univ. of Alaska Press, 1967 and Bradford Washburn, Mt. McKinley and the Alaska Range in Literature, Museum of Science, Boston, 1951, particularly items #110, 111, 114, 116, 172, 217, 225-230.
Members of this party were: The Reverend Hudson Stuck (1863- 1920), Episcopal Archdeacon of the Yukon who had his headquarters at the mission in Nenana; Harry P. Karstens (1878-1955), renowned Alaskan pioneer who lived in Fairbanks; in essence, the guide of the expedition and Stuck’s partner in this undertaking; The Reverend Robert G. Tatum (1891-1964), a young minister 21 years of age who was an assistant of Archdeacon Stuck; Walter Harper (1892-1918), also 21, son of famed Tanana pioneer Arthur Harper, powerful halfbreed Alaskan, who was Stuck’s interpreter and assistant; like Karstens, a powerful and competent outdoorsman. He lost his life with his wife on their honeymoon when the “Sophia” sank in Lynn Canal on October 24, 1918; Johnny and Esias, two native boys from the mission school at Nenana, only 14-15 years old, who were invaluable as assistants and dog drivers for this party. Friday, March 14: Deacon Walter & I start (No entries at all from March 14 through March 29).
Sunday, March 30: I Broke trail to lake1 & returning had lunch with Fred Heiselman.2 I
Monday, March 31: Boys Relaying to lake cabin. Stuck and I stayed with McGonigall3 on the hill
Wednesday, April 2: boys relay to lake cabin between Moose & McKinley rivers got Moccisins from Mox
