The Troubled History of New Orleans’ Food Culture

New Orleans, the old joke goes, is a city of a thousand restaurants and one menu. While that jibe is way out of date these days, Theresa McCulla’s new book, Insatiable City: Food and Race In New Orleans, takes a deep dive into the history of food culture in the Crescent City and the ties — generational, racial, and political — that have made the city’s distinct cuisine one of the most acclaimed in the world.