Ketchup and the Pure Food Movement

So smooth, so dependable. That cheerful red sauce that balances sweet and tangy, forever wedded to French fries. The diplomatic arbiter between toddlers and…well…all other food. Truffle aioli this is not; it’s ketchup. Every day it sits out on tables and counters in diners and cafeterias as plainly as the most basic salt and pepper, reliable and unassuming, perhaps even friendly